The famous firework in Sydney is a stunning experience. I was able to take that shot in 2014-2015
The famous firework in Sydney is a stunning experience. I was able to take that shot in 2014-2015
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Contest Finalist in Bridges At Night Photo Contest
Runner Up in Colors In The City Photo Contest
Contest Finalist in Colors In The City Photo Contest
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Contest Finalist in Yellow, Orange And Red Lights Photo Contest
Contest Finalist in Modern Cities Photo Contest
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adavies
February 04, 2017
Yowza! This is fantastic...beautifully captured! If you haven't done so already, please consider joining my Outdoor Events challenge:)
https:// viewbug.com/challenge/outdoor-events-fairs-concerts-marketsany-outdoor-event-photo-challenge-by-adavies
https:// viewbug.com/challenge/outdoor-events-fairs-concerts-marketsany-outdoor-event-photo-challenge-by-adavies
andreawhittakerheintz
July 04, 2017
I'm so happy to see that you were able to get this shot with an EOS 70D, that is what I have as well. All my friends have bigger cameras and I always think to get shots like this I would need something bigger.
ricodrost
July 07, 2017
Whoow very good shot and thx for the detailed information about how you shot it.
stuarthowarth
August 25, 2017
I have a similar shot from a similar viewpoint, was this at Midnight at the Oasis?
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Behind The Lens
Location
At Mrs. Macquaries Point near the Botanical Gardens in Sydney, AustraliaTime
Hard to tell, I`d say roughly around midnight :-)Lighting
I shot in BULB mode to control the exposure exactly and tried to find promising rocket formations. I used my sharpest aperture at f8.0 and an ISO at 125 to have sharp and clear photographs. I waited for the rockets to explode and started the exposure just milliseconds after they had exploded. I stopped the exposure right after the rockets had spread out completely, in this case after 3.2 seconds.Equipment
I used with my Canon EOS70D with an 18-135mm F3.5 lens on 35mm. I exposed the image for 3.2 seconds, so I had to use my Manfrotto travel and a remote control to avoid any blur.Inspiration
I am a German travel photographer and know the famous Sydney Firework display for New Years Eve ever since because it is broadcasted every year on German television. When I started to plan my world trip together with my girlfriend back in 2013, the first thing we planned m was to be in Sydney for new Years Eve to shoot the famous firework display.Editing
The firework lasted for 12 minutes and I shot this photograph at the end of the display. Due to the many minutes of immense firework explosions, there was a lot of smoke in the air. I used the "dehaze" tool in Lightroom to get a clearer image. Afterwards, I worked on the colors, especially on the pinks to show them exactly like I saw them. The boats in the foreground were a bit too dark because they were mainly backlit from the firework show, so I brightened them up a bit.In my camera bag
I use a Canon EOS70d and my very first EOS450D whenever I need a quick grip to on of my other lenses, which are a 10-18mm Canon f4.5 wide angle, an 18-135mm Canon f3.5 zoom, a 50mm Canon f1.8 and a 75-300mm Canon f4 zoom lens. Ths covers a range from 10-300mm (Equivalent to 16-480mm on the cropped sensors of both cameras). I use a Manfrotto action tripod a and remote control to shoot long exposures.Feedback
Shooting firework displays is not easy, especially in Sydney where you have to be on location up to 20 (!) hours in advance for a first-row spot, if you are a normal visiting photographer (There is a small area restricted for media pass holders) When shooting fireworks, you must have a tripod and a remote control to operate your camera without touching to guarantee absolute sharpness. Frame your shot in advance, and look for foreground interest. Straighten the horizon line and avoid aborted architecture, especially when using a wide angle lens. When the show begins, look for the rockets as they are flying towards the sky and start the exposure right after they have exploded in order to avoid their bright explosion to be on the image. You can shoot in manual mode or in Bulb mode to have maximum control. In my experience, a 4-second exposure on ISO 100 and f8.0 will often do a good job. Test your settings in advance and make changes, if required.