Stacked high magnification of satsuma and leaves with water droplets
Stacked high magnification of satsuma and leaves with water droplets
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People's Choice in Objects in one or two colors Photo Challenge
Spring Selection Award
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Behind The Lens
Location
This photo was taken in my home studio in Bournemouth, U.K.Time
This was taken under studio lighting late one evening on 19th February 2015 - I finished the processing at just past midnight.Lighting
As this was using a technique called photo stacking using a high magnification macro lens I set the lighting up using two studio softboxes with some additional fine net curtain (the type used in windows) to avoid reflections.Equipment
Canon 20D with the Canon MP-E65mm f2.8 1-5x macro lens. 2x continuous lighting softboxes and a Novoflex CASTEL-Q Focusing Rack fitted with a Novoflex CAST-FINE Fine Focus Adjuster on a Novoflex Minipod.Inspiration
I had been experimenting with capturing food and other items at high magnificiation and saw the satumas in the fridge so thought the orange and green leaves would be an interesting study.Editing
After taking aroung 150 shots on the focusing rack I loaded the batch into Zerene Stacker which I found to be an excellent piece of software to put the final shot together. Once this had been completed it was a case of some adjustments to shadows and general clean up of the shot.In my camera bag
Hero camera is now the Canon 5DR S which is fantastic for landscape, the Canon 16-35mm f/4 L lens, the Canon 24-105mm f/4 IS USM lens and the fabulous Canon EF 70-200mm F/2.8 L IS II USM Lens.Feedback
For these type of shots invest time in choosing the exact angle of the subject of experiment with lighting configuration - avoid reflections where possible. Choose a very solid surface to place subject & camera on. Use a remote shutter if possible to avoid any physical movement. When using the manual focusing rack invest in the best you can afford - the budget ones will have excess movement and not accurate enough. Set the camera to shoot jpeg on maximum resolution you can. Set the initial focus up to just beyond the front of the subject and use small increments on the rack between each frame. Depending on the depth of the subject you may need 10 -200 frames so it is a little trial and error to begin with. Try not to move the rack too far between frames or your shot will suffer from banding where sections of the subject are out of focus. Try to ensure that you reach the farthest point of the subject that you want in focus in the final shot - its easy to miss the last few millimeters and end up ruining the shot.