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Behind The Lens
Location
This image was taken at Asilomar in Pacific Grove, CA. I'm very fortunate to live in the Monterey area where the photo ops are tremendous. Monterey is famous for it's seascapes, however, I wanted to make this seascape have an ethereal aspect to it.Time
This was shot just after the sun went down. I photographed the sun as it set, but then I saw this scene off to the right of the sun. I had to scramble because I was losing light very quickly.Lighting
By the time I had composed this shot, it was getting very dark (which helped me to get the very long exposure needed to soften the waves, which gave it a very misty look).Equipment
This was shot with a Nikon D800 and a Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8 lens. I used a Hakuba carbon fiber tripod with a Manfrotto ball head.Inspiration
When I saw the layout of the rocks, I thought this could be a very nice composition. The long exposure made the waves very misty, which helped give the rocks separation. The light from the twilight was very warm, soft, nyet directional. I liked that the warmth from the sunset warmed the color of the rocks, and the indigo sky made the water a very cool color. I've always loved the juxtaposition of warm and cool colors, together.Editing
I brought out a lot of detail in the rocks with a combination of "Shadow/Highlight" feature in Photoshop, as well as the "detail Enhancer" filter in Nik Color Efex Pro 4. I used some of the "Glamour Glow" filter in Nik to help give the mist a nice fantasy glow. Since the exposure was so long, anything moving in the scene (birds, boats, etc) would have been blurred beyond recognition, so I added birds and the boat in Photoshop.In my camera bag
I tailor my bag according to what I might be shooting, keeping in mind unplanned photo ops. If I'm going to the beach to shoot a sunset seascape, I will bring my 24-70mm and 14-24mm lenses, knowing that I will want to shoot more of the scene than a tight shot of the sun. I usually bring ND filters to tailor the length of exposure to achieve the effect I want the waves to have. A good, sturdy tripod is a must, as well a remote shutter release. I use a kitchen timer when the exposures are longer than 30 seconds. I bring a flashlight so I can see the camera to set the settings, and also use the flashlight when breaking down the gear, especially since it is usually dark by the time I finish shooting. Sometimes, the flashlight will help in adding fill light to dark areas of the scene. I use a black card to put in front of the lens if a car's headlight threatens to ruin the shot during the lengthy exposure. A warm jacket, a folding stool, water, and snacks can be nice to have.Feedback
As much as possible, scout the scene beforehand, so you know where to set your camera. Prefocus and turn your autofocus feature on your camera, "OFF". Also be sure to turn off your image stabilization off, as it may cause some blurring on your image. You need to experiment to find the highest ISO possible before you gain too much noise. It's a tradeoff so don't take the ISO too far. Concentrate on getting one great image rather than bouncing around trying to get as many images as possible. It is far better to get one GREAT image that a hundred MEDIOCRE images.