Sunken legends

Lake Voulismeni
Agios Nikolaos
North-Eastern Crete
October 2017

Most of those familiar with my homeland will attribute its uniqueness to either history or culture. Yet, they forget geology. There are so many areas to explore, so many angles to survey and so many depths to plumb in Crete. Such was the depth of the illustrated landmark that English geologist and vice-admiral Thomas Abel Spratt decided to plumb in 1853 and disprove the enduring myth which had it bottomless. His soundings revealed a remarkable 64-metre depth at the centre of the 137-metre wide lake. That was it: case closed, although not quite forgotten.

Once one has stood on the edge of the shore and looked down, they will understand why the above theory was given rise. This body of water deepens so steeply it imparts an eerie sensation of standing next to an abysmal sinkhole. Those who have jumped in it (intentionally, but mostly accidentally during New Year’s and Easter celebrations) and lived to tell a story will attest to the good swimming skills required to avert tragedy.

Myths and far-fetched tales have surrounded the lake since time immemorial and continued long after Admiral Spratt’s debunking verdict. In the olden days, the locals maintained that evil spirits lay restless in it. Shortly after the conclusion of WWII, reports emerged that the retreating German Army sank weapons and armoured vehicles in it, but they mysteriously disappeared and were never found (every investigation by professional divers since has been to no avail). Following an eruption of the Santorini volcano in 1956, dead fish rose to the surface of the lake, thus sparking off doom-and-gloom rumours that the lake is somehow connected to the distant island and its ill-fated volcano. Folklore never desists…

The truth about Agios Nikolaos’ lake is less romantic. It is largely known by the name “Voulismeni” (the Greek for “sunken”) and to a lesser extent unsavoury “Vromolimni” (stinky lake). The latter is a remnant of bygone days, when its stagnant waters gave off an unpleasant smell, until a channel was cut to connect it to the sea (background), to resolve the issue and strip the lake off its “sweet-water” classification. Its distinctive vertical walls resemble those of a volcanic crater and contribute to the great views afforded by the park and cafeterias situated all around the top.

Fairy tales and folklore don’t really excite me but they do make me hungry. At 16:30 PM the heat is reaching a climax and so is my guts’ rumbling. The views along the perimeter of the lake leading up to those of the quaint harbour are more than good distraction during a one-mile laboured walk to Maistrali, my favourite taverna. I don’t visit home often nowadays, but when I do I make sure it is not merely a pleasure journey for myself but a culinary one for my taste buds. Right now, I feel the taste of lamb chops, Greek salad and tzatziki from last year’s session. When it comes to beverage, there is little wrong with Mythos which, by the way, is the Greek for “myth”.
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