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Extreme Motocross - Big ramps, big air, big sky!

Extreme Motocross - Big ramps, big air, big sky!
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5 Comments |
winnerslens31 Ultimate
 
winnerslens31 January 30, 2014
Excellent capture keep up the great work.
Chad from Montreal Canada
DAPhotography
 
DAPhotography January 30, 2014
Congratulations. Great capture
mspix
 
mspix January 31, 2014
Wow!! Great capture!!
pradeephiremath
 
pradeephiremath January 31, 2014
great timing...
RSeanC Platinum
 
RSeanC April 22, 2020
Great picture
See all

Behind The Lens

Location

This image was shot in April of 2013 at a motorcycle rally known as Blue Ridge Bike Fest at the Roanoke Civic Center in Roanoke, VA. While I truly appreciate the interest on Viewbug this image has received, I am also a little confused by it. For myself, I don't really see anything particularly special about it. Yes, it has action and the exposure is good and it's in focus and the colors work... Perhaps it is because I was there. There were 3 of these guys doing a supercross style "thrill" jump show. I simply parked myself at a view angle away from the crowd with sun behind me a bit. A little luck, perhaps, with a continuous shutter and that was that. I do shoot a lot of motor racing so I am accustomed to speed, panning and motion.

Time

Mid afternoon... 2:30pm give or take a take a notch. Nice blue day

Lighting

It's a sunlit afternoon. I just positioned the sun at my back.

Equipment

Here is a bit of my soapbox.... This was shot with a Canon Rebel T2i and a 28-135 lens. f11, 1/400, ISO 200, lens at 64mm. I always shoot racing "center-weighted" as it is usually day light and that gives me a good reading of the subject. Here's the thing... I've shot racing for 10 years. I've used an XTi, T1i, T2i yada yada. Currently I use a 70D and keep the T2i as a back up. I have a 5D MKII but not at the races. Glass... I am completely and totally amazed at the yammering about "L" glass or Nikon top drawer lenses. Yes... There are benefits for low light and other such. However, most racing is in the daylight. ISO 100-200, even 400... f8-11. The bottom of a soda bottle will give a good result stopped down. I don't own "L" glass. I've researched and found, for the major majority of shooting, some great lenses that are stupid cheap. Most aren't even made anymore. I just shot a major series IMSA weekend at Virginia International Raceway. I used a Canon 70-210 f4 (the push-pull version from the 80's!), and a Canon 28-105 3.5-4.5. These have great glass (better than modern "consumer" options") and can be had for less than $150. My advice... Grow the skill set before you empty the wallet.

Inspiration

Inspiration is not the correct word.... Opportunity is more valid. I was there shooting for the promoter. Crowd and vender shots, background, the over all experience. This was there, I was there.

Editing

In post, I lightened the shadows a bit and likely applied a little sharpenning and maybe some saturation.

In my camera bag

I own lights and modifiers and strobes and yada yada... For racing, the 70D and the backup T2i. Lenses, 28-105 3.5-4.5, 70-210 f4, 28-135 3.5-5.6 and the 50 1.8. Usually one flash. And a monopod!!! Portrait or "fashion" I have two flashes, stands, umbrella / soft box and sometimes a homemade "beauty dish" with the 5D MKII. The 28-105 and the 50 for lenses, maybe the 28-70 (also 3.5-4.5 and good and cheap) I just got a f2.8 70-200 Tammy so that will be added. There are always rechargeable batteries and memory cards. (by the way... the 5D MKII uses compact flash. Expensive. Plus I'm paranoid about those little pins. The SD-CF convertors work but still need to be ejected to get the card out. More pin worry. I found a micro-SD-CF card that stays in the cam and I just eject the microSD card from the door. No more pin worry!)

Feedback

Shooting fast action is a skill anyone can get. A monopod is one of your best buddies. It panning along the line of motion smooth and eliminates camera shake. That said, practice and learn to pan without it as it can get in the way in tight areas. Start with a fast shutter speed. 1/400 or higher. Gat the feel for freezing the action and get used to how things move. Over time you'll start lowering the shutter speed (1/125 or so) to get the "action" but a motion blur background. You don't need super lenses or top shelf gear but you absolutely have to shoot manual. Learn the camera, aperture and shutter control and you control the image. Go to racetracks, motocross races, boat races, bicycle races.... Anything with speed. Practice! Find events that you can get close to without special credentials (Virginia International Raceway, perfect example. You can shoot over the fencing and are close enough to get "pro" results. There are no grandstands and it is wide open green space.) Shutter speed, steady pan, continuous shutter. You don't need 7 frames a second... The T2i does less than 4 and it does pretty darn good...

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